Don Agustin Grefa

The Lowland Quichua are settled along the Napo River and many of its tributaries. Tena, Archidona and Istandi are located in the Higher Napo area. This whole region is known as an area of cultural encounters, since ancient times. This was a place of transition of large tribal migrations coming from both, south (Tupí Guaraní group) and north, (group known as the Caribes).

By the time the Spanish arrived, there were many different cultural groups living in the Napo area. Quijos, Omaguas, Cocamas, Sionas, Waos, among many others. This explains the cultural richness of the area, which is expressed in the ceramics and petroglyphs recovered there. There are hundreds of different petroglyphs located in small boulders, especially around Tena and Archidona. Archaeological researchers believe that they date from 3000 BC.

The Quichua language arrived with the conquest of these indigenous groups, imposed by the missionaries as a way of evangelization. Under the language of Quichua they have organized as an indigenous nationality known as Quichua del Oriente (Lowland Amazonian Quichua). Don Agustin will define himself as either as a lowland Quichua or Naporuna, meaning Person from the Napo River. Don Agustin is also an expert herbalist; he knows around 3000 of the forest plants and how to use them in forms for natural healing.

The camp we visit is in an area called Istandi sitting along side the Hollín River. Istandi is the name of the mountain range of the area; our place is located specifically in the Huarmi (which means female in Quichua) part of Istandi. The myth of the area tells that long time ago, Istandi was a great animal trader; a couple that lived there; Huarmi and Kari (male) would sell many animals to the other mountain ranges depleting the area of its wildlife. They decided to have a son, but one of the Yachaks (shaman) from the area discovered that if the baby grew, he would bring bad spirits to the people and deplete the area of all the animals. The Yachak climbed a huge Paso tree to kill the baby (Beto) that was sleeping in a hammock under the tree. Both parents started crying and called a giant armadillo to ask for help. The asked him to cut the roots of the tree, were Beto was hanging, but he couldn’t. They called two others armadillos but both broke their nails trying to cut the roots and kill the Yachak. The Yachak was successful in killing Beto. The couple was broken hearted and they separated, Kari the male left northeast and Huarmi remained in the area where we will stay. The richness of animal activity is believed to be because the Yachak killed the boy who would have otherwise scared the animals away. It is true that Istandi is rich in animal tracks and life evident in the many footprints and signs of feeding in the area.

In general, for the Naporunas the magic and spiritual world is very real, expressed in their daily lives. Dreaming is a common way to connect with the spirits and ancestors living in the forest, the interpretation of dreams is important for them. They also communicate with the magic world through the Ayahuasca, a main function for a Yachak. The rainforest for these people is a magic world where they believe that waterfalls or lakes are sometimes gates to enter the underworld. They believe at any time that a person can be lured into places and disappear into the magic of the forest, never to be seen again in physical form. They tell stories of families transforming into jaguars and back. For the Lowland Quichua the forest is more mystical than with many other Amazonian groups, they continue to honor and respect the magic that is unseen.